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IMPORTANT: Use this switch for everything EXCEPT wah wah's.

A better choice for wahs is the Carling 316PP. This is due to the shaft length of the Carling being better suited for wah applications.

I am proud of our completely revamped (in 2003) Fulltone 3PDT footswitch. In order to make it stronger, I went to a solid brass internal pushrod "actuator"and changed the body material to bakelite to prevent a hot soldering iron from dislodging the terminals. Thirdly, during retooling, I designed the pin terminal holes much tighter These are tough, with no failures of many THOUSANDS in circulation.

Do NOT confuse this switch with the poorly designed & executed Blue New Sensor switches stolen from my (old, dirscarded) Molds...or the crappy white ones on ebay... Yes, they convin$ed my factory to copy my switch but they neglected 3 important aspects of my newer design;)

1) the blue & white ones use plastic for the body, which melts immediately, allowing the terminal pins to become loose and one day, or a month or so down the road and then say Buh Bye to the sound!

2) they use plastic for the internal actuating shaft! You step on it, the shaft flexes, the first time...the 200th time.. the shaft pops out of its socket...buh bye switch!

3) I reshaped the rocker assembly (using a dremel) over many months, testing and re-testing, until the whole thing worked lawlessly and continuously without hanging up a sticking. This is another thing causing the massive failures on the white and Blue 3PDT's available.

So to the folks making this junk I say..."Do your homework, give a damn, and it's irresponsible to sell little timebombs to the unsuspecting public."

a 3PDT (9 pole) is the only type of switch that allows for True Bypass w/ LED. 99% of all pedals have a crappy buffered output so the pedal's never really off!.


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